These Rubber Impeller pumps are made of high quality bronze of maximum corrosion resistance. All shafts consist of stainless steel grade 303. Top of the line models have ball bearings and mechanical seals while others have bronze or carbon bearings and lip type seals. Impellers are made of Neoprene Rubber. Nitrile impellers are available as an option. Flexible blades on the periphery of the impeller provide the pumping action. While the impeller rotates the liquid between the blades is continuously squeezed out into the discharge port by a machined in cam located inside the pump chamber.
- Bronze Construction - Corrosion Resistance
- Large Suction and Discharge Ports
- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) Barrier Seals Protecting Ball Bearings
- Mechanical Carbon Ring, Ceramic Face Main
- Pump Seal Standard, Optional Nitrile Lip Seal
- Two Sealed Ball Bearings Spaced for Maximum Load Ability
- Large Vent & Drain Openings Separate Seal & Bearing Areas
- Shaft Slinger for Additional Bearing Protection
- Neoprene Impeller Standard, Nitrile Impeller Optional
- Passivated 316 Stainless Steel Shaft
- Extra Capacity Ball Bearings plus Rugged Construction for Prolonged Service Life
- Impeller & Cam Easily Replaced
Direct drive with flexible coupling or pulley drive can be used. Make sure both flexible coupling halves are properly aligned. When using pulley, do not over-tighten belt.
LIQUIDS & TEMPERATURES
Liquids compatible with neoprene can be pumped including fresh and salt water solutions and mild chemicals. Do not pump severe solvents or acids. When possible, flush pump with fresh water after each usage. Nitrile impellers can handle oil contaminated water and kerosene at reduced impeller service life. Extremes of cold and heat will affect impeller life. Limits of 40o to 180 o F should be observed. Do not allow liquid in pump to freeze. Drain pump by loosening cover screws. Use methyl alcohol based anti-freeze compounds such as Zerex, Shell Zone, Pyro Permanent, Permagard, and Dowgard.
Suction lift of 15 ft. is possible when impeller is wet. Suction lines must be air tight in order for pump to self prime. A foot valve at the beginning of suction line is recommended.
EXPLODED VIEW & PARTS LIST
The impeller must be replaced if it is worn out or has been damaged by debris or by running the pump dry. Symptoms of a defective impeller are low pumping pressure and low flow causing overheating of the boat engine. Poor pump performance can also be caused by slippage of V-belts, so belts should be checked for tightness.
To replace the impeller remove screws and cover. Pull out the impeller with needle nose pliers or two screwdrivers. Be careful not to dent the pumping chamber with these tools. When inserting new impeller, line up key slot in impeller with the key in the shaft. Use oil on shaft and avoid forcing the impeller onto the shaft.
The impeller should also be removed for storage periods to prevent the blades from taking a permanent set.
Pump will operate satisfactorily when mounted in any position. DO NOT RUN DRY. Rubber impeller pumps generate high rubbing friction unless lubricated by liquid being pumped. Lack of liquid will cause impeller to burn up.
If water drips from the weep hole or from the area where the shaft exits the pump, the seal is defective and must be replaced. While the Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) barrier seal provides a first line of defense, prolonged running of the pump with a leaky seal can destroy the ball bearings resulting in catastrophic pump failure and engine shut-down. For seal replacement, the pump must be removed from the engine and disassembled in order to gain access to the seal area. Where mechanical seals are used, both components (stationary and rotating member) must be replaced at the same time. Lip seals must be pushed out of their press-fitted position and new seals pressed into place, using a sealant on the outside of the lip seal housing. Refer to exploded view drawings for seal location and part numbers for ordering purposes.